It sat there and looked at me the way only a cat can... it sniffed (unapprovingly) the dripped waxoil, and I said… H222 Extremely flammable aerosol.H229 Pressurised container: may burst if heated.H336 May cause drowsiness or dizziness.H372 Causes damage to organs through prolonged or repeated exposure.H411 Toxic to aquatic life with long lasting effects. True story that has been on the LR forums for a few years... anyone who's had dripping Waxoyl in the face while DIYing the job will appreciate this...

Removing dripping clothes I entered house in “minimal Clothes” to resolve fuse prob, when Lights went on I saw the cat… hour later cat was scrubbed and very peed off with me, I’ve had 2 baths, and also cleaned the bath it seems that the bath will not be rusty...scrubbed kitchen floor, sink, worktop Like anything else, you have to prepare properly and apply it properly. It's no good just slapping it on crusty surface rust as that'll just fall off. Do some prep work first, take the "clumps" off and cover the rust hiding underneath those big clumps. There are also different kinds of treatments. Plain old Waxoyl is water resistant but will wash off over the space of 4-6 months, sooner if you make a habit of driving through a lot of standing water. There's also Underbody Seal with Waxoyl added. Our range of direct-to-metal paints can be applied on top of the affected area and instantly provide reliable rust-proofing for years to come. Produced by Hammerite, our car paints are available in pots or in spray cans and in a variety of popular colours. They’re perfect for DIY car-rust repairs. Car rust removal solutions from Halfords

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It also pinged the fuse for the lighting circuit, getting myself out of the underneath of the landy proved friutfull, in that I knew all the places that waxoil had “leaked”. Waxoyl and Ziebart both definatly work. My MK2 Granada had waxoyl done from new and its survived very well in places it should have rotted away. The sills, chassis, doors etc are all still in good solid original condition after nearly 30 years and 200K miles! The car has needed extensive welding but only in places the original Ford coatings have failed! Its certainly done the job as im sure the car wouldnt be around today had it not been treated. It can be a pain though when welding as it melts in the heat and catches fire easily! Grabbing some white spirit to further thin the waxoil I entered the kitchen and unscrewed the waxoil lid.

Remember to work safely by using axle stands, a pit or a four post ramp if you plan to go underneath the vehicle. Always place the wheel you've removed under the chassis rails as a fail safe should an axle stand fail. It most certainly works, I've used it for years. Yes, it kills existing rust. Yes, it stops new rust forming. It's particularly good for inside doors and box sections. P102 Keep out of reach of children.P101 If medical advice is needed, have product container or label at hand.P210 Keep away from heat, hot surfaces, sparks, open flames and other ignition sources. No smoking.P260 Do not breathe dust/fume/gas/mist/vapours/ spray.P251 Do not pierce or burn, even after use.P304 + P340 IF INHALED: Remove person to fresh air and keep comfortable for breathing.P312 Call a POISON CENTRE/doctor/…/if you feel unwell.P410 Protect from sunlight.P412 Do not expose to temperatures exceeding 50 o C/ 122 o F.P501 Dispose of contents/container to … More recently, I've used motor oil, thinned with diesel or kerosene to the point where it can be sprayed with one of those cheapo trigger-action hand sprayers, though a proper cavity sprayer would probably be better. Long term, it forms a semi-solid skin of wax (demi-semi-solid in average Scottish temperatures) under which rust continues.

So why am I sharing this, well just to advise caution if you think that a chassis is in good condition because it has been waxoyled, in my case this was definitely not so… all it served to do was mask the rust gremlins that are our very worst enemy. This is going to take quite some time, but using some white spirit on a cloth will remove Waxoyl from most surfaces. Likely, it will have gone everywhere on your vehicle, but the key places to remove it from are any windows, as it will smear if left in place and the windscreen wipers are used. Remove the Waxoyl as soon as you can, otherwise it may become tougher to remove. After a few days have passed, give the paintwork a wash down and the vehicle will look as good as new, both on the exterior and underneath.