I have various standard straight router bits but am wondering if there are specific bits designed for flattening a board? I will go up to 3/16" on the first pass or two if there is a good amount of irregularity but then drop back to 1/8" once a start cutting a majority of the slab surface. You'll be working blind, so you can't see in real time what the bit is doing and whether a problem is occurring that can't be heard but only seen.

If the item comes direct from a manufacturer, it may be delivered in non-retail packaging, such as a plain or unprinted box or plastic bag. Yours is one of those tasks where a good-quality router in good nick will make shedloads of difference, as will the quality of the trammel arrangement you contrive -- straightness, parallelism and sag of the crosspiece(s). With the 25mm flute bit I wasn't really restricted for depth of cut- it'd quite happily remove 15mm high spots. I use a 25mm CMT bit, and for the first 2 or 3 runs I cut heavy, maybe around an 1/8th, then as I get closer to final level, I make much shallower passes, like a 1/16th or less. Used with a router and router sled, they also work well for flattening end-grain cutting boards or wood with difficult grain patterns such as crotch wood.Reiterating what has been said and adding a bit to bring all the tips together in one place: Your guide rails have to be very straight, parallel to each other, and well anchored in place. You can get creative with a simple piece of wood and probably make it one of the most beautiful things in the world. HIGH QUALITY CNC SURFACING ROUTER BIT: The sharp carbide tipped bit, solid hardened steel bodies with anti-kickback design. It's unlikely you can get it perfect (although using clamping cauls can definitely help with this goal) but if you exercise particular care you may end up with a result flat enough that you only need to sand to flatten, rather than having to mill off 1mm or more.

Do the 6 wing jobbies just make the job quicker (larger diameter) or do they leave a better finish as well? Though the shank size is similar to the previous W05002 router bit, its cutting diameter is larger than that. I would probably go for one of these routers as people overlook the Ryobi RE-600 routers mostly because the Ryobi name is attached and they assume it's a hobby grade machine so they don't fetch silly money like Makita or Dewalt.

The content contained on this site is provided for informational purposes only and does not constitute professional advice. New: A brand-new, unused, unopened and undamaged item in original retail packaging (where packaging . And to top it off, the time and material you invest into making your sled pay off over time since now you have a tool that can be used again and again to do the same sort of job with very little setup time.

I'd suggest using your router table's fence and making passes in the usual direction (right to left), and moving the fence a little farther from the bit after each pass.And then you have to put the workpiece back down carefully and push it back into position (still working blind remember) until the bit unexpectedly re-engages with the work.

Finally, to fully flatten the piece all the way around, you'd need to route into the "rails" as well. You would also need to make sure that the work piece and its "rails" are fully supported by the router table for the entire size of the piece.

You say 1/8" So that is an 1/8" from the very highest point, so much of the time you are cutting air? The above really overshadow anything else, but additional issues relate to the parallel bars you're envisaging using, including how they'll be attached to the board, how you'd ensure they are parallel to each other and then parallel the opposite face of the board. USE RANGE for CNC ROUTER BIT: Suitable for solid woods, mdf, laminate, particle board, plywood compact panel, acrylic and etc. It looks to me like either the slab or the router/sled is not staying level as you move it or at least between passes.